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How to build a subwoofer box

This DIY project can be a real money-saver

Custom box

Building your own subwoofer box is a great way to get the look and fit you want, without spending a fortune. All you need is a few basic tools, hardware, and materials.

In this article:

Building a box is a lot of fun and will save you some cash, but DIY jobs aren't for everyone. If you get through this article and decide that box building might not be for you, then check out our selection of high-quality, premade subwoofer boxes.

Cost for materials

We spent right around $25, though your costs will vary depending on what you already have in the garage.

Time spent

Building our sub box took about an hour and a half. Your project could take more time or less, depending on the complexity of your box's shape, and the tools you have at your disposal. We had a roomy, well-equipped shop.


What you'll need

  • Jigsaw
  • Table saw or circular saw
  • Electric drill with bits for pre-drilling screw holes and driving screws
  • 3/4" MDF (medium density fiberboard)
  • 2" drywall screws
  • Panhead sheet metal screws (1/2" and 3/4")
  • Carpenter's glue
  • Silicon caulk
  • Non-hardening rope caulk
  • Speaker terminal cup — see our full selection of box building supplies
Alpine S-W10D4 S-Series 10" subwoofer

Choosing your subwoofer

When choosing a subwoofer, carefully note the manufacturer's recommended enclosure size, especially if you have limited space in your vehicle. The box volume tells you how big your enclosure needs to be for maximum performance from the sub. The box shown in this article was intended for my Honda CR-V, so I wanted to make sure it wouldn't take up too much space. With that requirement in mind, I chose a 10"  Alpine sub. The manufacturer recommends a box volume of 0.45 to 0.9 cubic feet, so it'll be fine in a small box.

Shop component subwoofers

Planning your subwoofer box design

You can follow these steps to determine the correct dimensions for your subwoofer box design:

Determine the minimum depth of your box. Measure the depth of your subwoofer and add 2 inches. This measurement is the minimum depth of your box (in this article, the depth refers to the front-to-back dimension of the box, with the woofer being mounted to the front).

Determine the minimum height and width of your box. Measure the frame diameter of your woofer, or check the mounting template that may be included with the owner's manual, to determine the minimum height and width for the front of your box. If you plan to mount a grille, be sure to allow for any additional space that may be needed to accommodate it.

Determine the available space in your vehicle. Measure the height, width, and depth of the vehicle space that you are willing to devote to your subwoofer. If the box must be wedge-shaped to fit, you will need to know the depth at the box's top and bottom.

Sketch out your box. Now's the time to sketch your box on paper using the dimensions you've gathered. The box shown in this article is rectangular, but you may find that a wedge-shaped box fits better in your car or truck. Your sketch may look like one of these:

Subwoofer box design

For our examples, let's use the following external dimensions:

Rectangular box Wedge box
Height: 13" Height: 14"
Width: 14" Width: 18"
Depth: 12" Depth 1: 5"
Depth 2: 8"

Determine the internal dimensions and volume of your box. The above steps identified the external dimensions of the box. To determine the internal volume, just subtract the thickness of the wood to be used for construction. If you're using 3/4" MDF (recommended!), then 2 x 3/4", or 1-1/2", will be subtracted from each dimension.


The internal dimensions for our examples:

Rectangular box Wedge box
Height: 11.5" Height: 12.5"
Width: 12.5" Width: 16.5"
Depth: 10.5" Depth 1: 3.5"
Depth 2: 6.5"

Calculate the internal box volume in cubic inches. Based on the internal dimensions, you can calculate the internal volume of the enclosure using the following formula: Height x Width x Depth = Cubic Volume

Let's plug in some numbers:

Rectangular box:

11.5" x 12.5" x 10.5" = 1,509.375 cubic inches

Wedge box: Since the wedge box has two depth dimensions, we need to find the average depth before we can determine the volume. To find the average depth, add the two depth measurements together, then divide by two. Remember that Depth 1 = 3.5 and Depth 2 = 6.5.

3.5" + 6.5" = 10"
10" / 2 = 5"

So, the average depth of the wedge-shaped box is 5". Plug that dimension into the formula:

12.5" x 16.5" x 5" = 1,031.25 cubic inches

Convert cubic inches to cubic feet. Since most manufacturers will provide the recommended box volume in cubic feet, you'll need to convert the internal volume from cubic inches into cubic feet. This is done by dividing the cubic inches by 1,728.

Rectangular box: 1,509.375 / 1728 = 0.873 cubic feet

Wedge box: 1,031.25 / 1728 = 0.597 cubic feet

Adjust your box's volume to match the sub's specifications. Now, compare the volume of the box you've sketched to the manufacturer's recommendation. If it's too large or too small, you can make small adjustments to one dimension until your box's internal volume matches the manufacturer's recommendation as closely as possible. Often, manufacturers will recommend a range of enclosure volumes. You can get good results with a box that's anywhere inside the recommended range.

Determine the final exterior box dimensions. Once you've identified the correct internal dimensions, it's time to add back that 1-1/2" we subtracted in step 5, to derive the new external dimensions. Double check to make sure that these dimensions will fit properly in your car, and you're ready to move on to construction.

Step-by-step instructions for building the subwoofer box

Step 1

We started by measuring and cutting the main pieces of MDF for the front, sides, back and top of the box, using a table saw with a carbide-tipped blade.

Don't have a table saw? Don't worry. If you purchase your MDF at any large home improvement store, they should be able to cut it for you for a small fee. You could also use a circular saw, just be careful to keep your cuts square (smooth, flat cuts help to ensure that the box seals well).

We cut seven pieces total — top and bottom, two sides, the back, and two identical pieces for the front (since it was to be a double thickness).

Drawing cutout
Step 2

After the pieces are cut to size, use a compass, or the template that may be included in your subwoofer's packaging, to mark the woofer cutout on one of the identical front pieces.

Fastening the front boards
Step 3

If you choose to use a double-thickness of MDF for the front panel (this method is recommended — it provides an extremely strong, non-resonant mounting surface for the sub), fasten the two identical front pieces together using plenty of carpenter's glue and several sheet metal screws. Also, the double thickness will serve to strengthen the box as a whole.

If you don't use a double thickness of MDF for the mounting surface, you should definitely plan to use bracing elsewhere in the box for added strength. In fact, it's never a bad idea to use bracing no matter what, especially if your box is larger than a cubic foot. The box will be subjected to extreme internal pressure, so the stronger it is, the better.

The easiest way to add bracing is with 2"x2" strips of lumber. Glue and screw these along at least two of your box's internal seams before attaching the top and bottom.

Drill press
Step 4

Using a drillpress, we made a hole near the inside edge of the circle we had traced, large enough for our jigsaw blade to fit in. If you don't have a drillpress, simply use your handheld drill and a large bit.

jig saw

We cut out the circle with a jigsaw, and the woofer opening was complete.

Terminal cup
Step 5

We followed the same drilling/jigsawing procedures to make a rectangular hole in the box's back panel. This would hold the terminal cup, which we installed next.

After running a bead of silicon caulk around the edge of the terminal cup, we screwed it into place using 1/2" sheet metal screws.

Gluing it together
Step 6

Since the back and front pieces were now complete, it was time to fasten everything together. Note: the largest sides of the box should overlap each of the smaller sides to provide the greatest strength. For our box, that meant that the sides were fastened to the front and back first, and the top and bottom were added last.

MDF can be prone to splitting, so we pre-drilled holes for the screws in each of the pieces to be fastened together. After pre-drilling the holes, we squeezed plenty of carpenter's glue between the pieces. The glue, not the screws, is what will ultimately seal the box, so don't be afraid to pour it on.

Screw it together
Step 7

Then, we fastened the pieces together using our cordless drill and 2" drywall screws. Some of the glue will squeeze out during this step — you can wipe it off the outside of the box using a wet rag, but it's OK to leave it on the inside edges (it'll actually help with the seal).

Clamping the box

After you put together the front, back, and sides, you may find that the box is a little out of square — we did. When you screw the top or bottom on, it should pull things back into alignment. Ours gave us just a little bit of trouble, though, so we used a furniture clamp to get things straightened out.

Now it's a box

After you've glued-and-screwed the sides, front, back, top, and bottom, you're just about done.

Shape it up
Step 8

The next step is to drop the subwoofer in and make sure it fits. If the box has gotten a bit out of square, you may find that the sub is now a tight fit — if so, use coarse sandpaper or a rasp to enlarge the opening a little.

Test fit the sub
Step 9

With the subwoofer in place, we used a pencil to mark the screw hole locations, then removed the subwoofer and pre-drilled holes for the mounting screws.

Caulk the inside
Step 10

To make double sure that everything was sealed, we waited for the glue to dry and ran a bead of silicon caulk over all of the box's internal seals. We used a hand-held tube of caulk, since it would be tough to get a caulk gun down inside the box at this point.

Let the caulk cure for 12-24 hours before putting the subwoofer back in. Some silicon caulk releases acetic acid fumes while curing, which have the potential to destroy subwoofer surrounds.

Rope caulk
Step 11

After the caulk had cured, we hooked up speaker wires from the terminal cup to the subwoofer and placed the subwoofer back in the box, using non-hardening rope caulk (found in the weatherstrip section of the hardware store) to seal it down.

Finishing and customizing the subwoofer box

After finishing the box, I couldn't wait to pop it in my CR-V. After the glue and caulk had dried, we hooked it up to the rear channels of my Alpine 4-channel amplifier using 12-gauge speaker cable. It sounded excellent, and the box was definitely sturdy.

However, since naked MDF leaves something to be desired in the looks department, I checked in with one of Crutchfield's installation specialists to get some ideas on customizing a subwoofer box. He offered up plenty of inspiration and installation tips on all kinds of coverings, from vinyl to carpet and beyond!

Thanks to Kelley Blanton, and to Taylor and Boody Organbuilders of Staunton, VA, for the use of their facility and tools.

Now, it's your turn

Following the directions in this article, you should be able to build your own subwoofer box. Be sure to check out our selection of subwoofer installation accessories — we carry a variety of speaker terminals, port tubes, carpet, and other accessories you need to build your box. And if you need help, contact our advisors.

  • Jake from Coventry

    Posted on 1/31/2021

    Should I insulate the inside of this box at all or leave it as is when completed?

    Commenter image

    Alexander H. from Crutchfield

    on 2/3/2021

    Jake, before you secure the sub to the box, try out temporary insulation and compare the sound with and without to get a sense of what's the best bass for you.
  • Cason from Bear

    Posted on 11/6/2020

    Does the equation to find the volume of the box change since you doubled thickness for the front?

  • King Luwi from Lusaka,Zambia.

    Posted on 8/26/2020

    Nicely explained & all steps very clear to follow. My question is,is putting a breather neccersary on the box?

  • Michael James from Gig harbor wa

    Posted on 7/7/2020

    I'm building a box for 4 Rockford fosgate r2d2 12in 2ohm. I want to make the ports built in instead of the round plastic ones you can get. Question is... can all the speakers share the same airspace with bracing throughout the box and sharing a port, or should they be in their own space with their own port?

  • Jan Felber from CROWN CITY

    Posted on 5/5/2020

    I'm looking for a custom box to fit in my 99 mustang

  • Shiloh from Pittsburgh

    Posted on 9/7/2019

    I am planning on making a rectangular sub box for a 12" sub that requires a volume of .9 cubic ft, but I am curious if designing the box with all 90 degree angles will ruin sound quality as so many people suggest.

    Commenter image

    Alexander H. from Crutchfield

    on 9/30/2019

    Shiloh, adding polyfill or otherwise altering the right angles in your box is one solution.
  • Bill Ware

    Posted on 2/8/2019

    Step 11 skips over the how-to of wiring. How and with what gauge wire do you connect wires to the sub speaker terminals and the terminal cup.

  • Cameron Novarro from Midland

    Posted on 11/2/2018

    What about for a ported box? Do u just cut a hole in it?

    Commenter image

    Alexander Hrabe from Crutchfield

    on 11/5/2018

    Cameron, for tips on building different styles of sub boxes, check out this article by our friends at Kicker.
  • Charles Robinson from Buda

    Posted on 7/29/2018

    With the cost of mdf at the big box home stores these days, a diy box may not offer much in savings at all. Careful shopping online can yield great deals on boxes that will have a much higher level of fit and finish than weekend warrior can hope to expect. Exception being the Kia Soul. Apparently nobody in the mainstream aftermarket thinks this car needs a box... grrr.

  • Doug Hollis from Saltillo, MS.

    Posted on 6/21/2018

    I want to build a sub box for 2 JBL Stage 810's. Per the informaton listed on the Crutchfield website the ideal box volume for this sub is .5 cubic feet. Should this be doubled when putting 2 in one box? I have built a 10" single sub box in the past using this article as my guide. Turned out rather well.

    Commenter image

    Alexander Hrabe from Crutchfield

    on 6/22/2018

    Doug, that's correct. You'll double the volume of the box.
  • John

    Posted on 6/17/2018

    In the section DETERMINE MINIMUM DEPTH says depth of sub woofer plus 2 inches. How much variance is there in that number? How close to the back of the box can the sub actually be? I am thinking about purchasing the Alpine R-W12D4 subs. Need to know how far from the back of the box these subs should be. That will help determine if I have enough room to make appropriate sized box.

    Commenter image

    Alexander Hrabe from Crutchfield

    on 6/19/2018

    John, given the power rating on those subs, we wouldn't recommend going under those 2" for cooling purposes. Also, FYI, here are Alpine's recommended specs for a box: Sealed Box Volume: The recommended sealed box volume ranges from 0.65 cubic feet to 1.1 cubic feet, with 0.85 cubic feet being the ideal size. (The volume in the manual is given as net, before accounting for the displacement of the subwoofer when installed.) Ported Box Volume: The recommended ported box volume ranges from 1.33 cubic feet to 1.83 cubic feet. The ideal size is 1.71 cubic feet, using a slot port measuring 12.5" (Width) x 1" (Height) x 16" (Length). (The volume in the manual is given as net, before accounting for the displacement of the subwoofer and slot port.)
  • Sathish from Kottupalayam

    Posted on 5/16/2018

    I always get high when I read a subwoofer box build!!!

  • Commenter image

    Alexander Hrabe from Crutchfield

    Posted on 7/27/2017

    Thanks, Stan!

  • Stan from Greensboro, NC

    Posted on 7/26/2017

    Here are a couple of answers for questions that seem to not get answered or are unknown: - Subwoofer Boxes should not be perfectly square. If you are an audiophile this would be true as you do not want any 90 degree angles internally in the enclosure. These straight angle will have adverse affects on the sound waves... Wont get technical here. Also recommended to round any port corners to remove potential for port noise. Standard listeners will not know the difference.... - True equation to calculate port Yes there is, and it all has to do with the frequency that the port is tuned to and in alignment of the Fb frequency. Providing the actual equation is a bit lengthy, so I wold defer you to the online calculators that exist. No only do you have to take into consideration the displacement of the subwoofer itself, it is also necessary to ensure that you are taking into consideration the displacement of other components such as vents and any bracing that has been incorporated.

  • Commenter image

    Alexander Hrabe from Crutchfield

    Posted on 7/21/2017

    Randy, If you bought your subs from Crutchfield, you can call Tech Support for free help planning your enclosure. If you purchased your equipment elsewhere, you might consider calling Kicker at (405) 624-8583. This article is our only online resource for building a sub box.

  • Randy from Orlando

    Posted on 7/20/2017

    I have 2 Kicker CompC 44CWCD154. I want to make a ported box but I don't know how to may you please help me set by set

  • Commenter image

    Alexander Hrabe from Crutchfield

    Posted on 7/13/2017

    Rudy, not that we're aware of. As usual, we'd suggest checking the manual for the ideal dimensions for your subwoofer or you may even want to consult the manufacturer's tech support before beginning.

  • Rudy Burke from Las Vegas

    Posted on 7/9/2017

    Hi Josh, I have read several articles stating that sub enclosures should not be perfectly square. Is there any truth to this? Thanks

  • Jacob wildrick from Syracuse

    Posted on 6/6/2017

    For ported boxes, is there a tried and true equation or method to calculate port length and cross-sectional area for any brand or size of sub? I understand each sub has a recommended amount of cubic feet with its enclosures determined by the manufacture. I'm assuming it has to something to do with the resonant frequency I am aiming for and the cubic measurement (volume) I am working with. Correct me if I'm wrong.

  • Kelly Rippel from Uhrichsville , Ohio

    Posted on 4/20/2017

    Thanks, Lotta help especially with the cu. in. To cu. ft.

  • Commenter image

    Alexander Hrabe from Crutchfield

    Posted on 4/13/2017

    Josh, you should be able to rely on the glue to hold your box together and clamps to ensure that the bond is secure. If you feel like you absolutely need reinforcement, you might consider using a pneumatic nail gun to prevent the kind of splitting that screws can cause.

  • Josh T from Tampa, FL

    Posted on 4/11/2017

    I've been doing my research on subwoofer enclosures and the main metrics to keep in mind when doing a SQ build. My question for you, is that I have seen people build subwoofer enclosures just using wood glue and clamps and they suggest not using screws as it's cheaper and removes the risk of the MDF splitting. Would you recommend using both glues and screws, or should using wood glue only and clamps be durable enough for a sealed JL 12w3v3? Thanks

  • Commenter image

    Alexander Hrabe from Crutchfield

    Posted on 3/20/2017

    Casper, no need for the sub to be recessed. As we have it here should work well.

  • Casper from Juliette, GA

    Posted on 3/18/2017

    Is it better for the speaker to be resecessed, so the front is level with the front of the box, or mounted to the front of the box, like your example?

  • Commenter image

    Alexander Hrabe from Crutchfield

    Posted on 2/21/2017

    Ethan, the dimensions that you're citing are from the top of the article and just an example. They are not the specific dimensions of the box that we built down below. Also, that box is nearly a cube, so it doesn't matter much either way, because the dimensions of each panel are pretty similar. The advice in Step 6 is more important when you're building a larger box for multiple subs.

  • Ethan from Harrisburg

    Posted on 2/19/2017

    I think I don't quite understand the statement "the largest sides of the box should overlap each of the smaller sides". That makes me think that your front/rear (14Wx13H) will overlap the top/bottom and also the left/right, and the top/bottom (14Wx12D) will overlap the left/right (13Hx12D). But your photo shows the top, bottom, left and right overlapping the two largest sides: the front and rear. Am I reading that statement the opposite of what it means?

  • Commenter image

    Alexander Hrabe from Crutchfield

    Posted on 1/4/2017

    Mark, you should be able to depend on the specifications in your sub's manual. The manufacturer will take into account the displacement of the driver, so you shouldn't need to worry about that.

  • Mark Tengowski from Victor, NY

    Posted on 12/27/2016

    When you calculate the inside cu. ft. required, do you also account for the driver itself? For example, if a driver needs 1 cu. ft. of space, do you need to add the volume of the driver since it will displace air to the equation? If so, a perfect 12" cube internally would be smaller than expected.

  • Commenter image

    Robert Ferency-Viars from Crutchfield

    Posted on 10/10/2016

    Gerald, we used eight on each exterior side (left & right) and six on each interior side (top & bottom). So by my math, that's 14 drywall screws. Use however many panhead screws it takes to bolt on your spring terminal cup and another half-dozen or so in the front boards. And when you go to the store to buy screws and a screwdriver, tell the clerk that you absolutely need a right-handed screwdriver. Sometimes they stock the left-handed and right-handed screwdrivers together, and the only way to tell them apart is to scan the barcode to see the stock info on the screen. You're going to be busy and don't have time to go back to the store because you got the wrong screwdriver.

  • Chuck Baldwin from Albuquerque

    Posted on 10/4/2016

    Great article! Has anyone approached you with the idea of using the concrete-pillar forms as tubular sub-woofer enclosures? I created one for one of my JBL 12" bass speakers by cutting the MDH to slip-fit into the inside diameter of the tube glued & screwed from the outside to be flush with the end edge-face of the tube. With the woofer mounted I was able to "tune" the enclosure by sliding the rear wood panel back & forth until I heard the maximum resonant response from the tube itself. Marking that using the rear face of the rear board, I cut the tube then mounted the rear plate with the recessed terminal connector plate mounted much as you describe in your article. My 2nd attempt will be to port the enclosure and "tune" it for maximum port output throughout the 10Hz to 250Hz frequency range. I WAS surprised that no mention was given in the article to the Frequency resonance spec for the speaker, as it can affect the "warmth" versus the "punch" an enclosure can produce. Still, a really good primer for the initiates. Thanks!

  • Gerald Laguerre from Miami

    Posted on 10/3/2016

    What number should the screws be for the 2 in drywall and pan head?

  • Commenter image

    Robert Ferency-Viars from Crutchfield

    Posted on 6/29/2016

    Dave, MDF is one of the best forms of plywood. It's heavier, more solid, and more sturdy than lesser grades. It's probably less expensive than solid wood, especially oak. There's no downside to using solid oak, that I know of, so go for it. As for box filler, that's always a personal choice. If you've used it in the past, then go ahead and use it here. A properly sized and tuned box doesn't really need it, but many people like it.

  • Dave from Evergreen

    Posted on 6/12/2016

    Is there a reason that MDF is always used? What about solid wood? Or 3/4" plywood? I wanted to make a sealed box out of 3/4" solid Oak to match the interior of my small Motorhome with no carpet on the outside. I plan on using either a single 10" or a 12" higher end JL Audio subwoofer and follow the mfg. specs on sizing the box. I have a SE2300 ARC Audio amp that will be powering the sub in bridged mode. I would like the frequency response to be as flat and true as possible and minimize any resonant frequency. Also should any type of stuffing such as fiberglass insulation added inside the subwoofer? Thanks!

  • Commenter image

    Alexander Hrabe from Crutchfield

    Posted on 6/6/2016

    Johnny, if both sets of specs are provided by the manufacturer, your best bet will be to contact their tech team for clarification. Looks like Image Dynamics' number is (866) 933-1414.

  • Johnny from Philadelphia

    Posted on 6/5/2016

    What's the difference between an "audiophile " enclosure than ported and sealed . I am having a box built and the shop will use the audiophile specs ,even though on the sheet that came with my IDMAX d2 v4 (it has audiophile specs) the recommended specs are different .

  • Commenter image

    Alexander Hrabe from Crutchfield

    Posted on 5/19/2016

    Ebro, if the Sony subs you have are ones we carry, you'll find ported and sealed volume recommendations (as well as Thiele parameters) under the Details tab of their Crutchfield web page. Keep in mind that if you bought your gear from Crutchfield, you can call Tech Support for free help troubleshooting your system. If you purchased your equipment elsewhere, you can still get expert Crutchfield Tech Support - 90 days-worth for only $30. Check out our tech support page for details.

  • Z28LT1 from Ebro

    Posted on 5/18/2016

    I have a 2001 camaro z28 convertible I want to build a custom box for the trunk I have 2 Sony explode 600 watt amps and 2 Sony explode 12 inch subs that I want to use I've tried contacting Sony but to no avail I seem to have come to a dead end can't find anything online maybe I'm just not looking hard enough any help and advice would be awesome

  • Commenter image

    Alexander Hrabe from Crutchfield

    Posted on 5/3/2016

    Roger, you'll get the best results by trusting the manufacturer - they're the ones who designed that sub so they know how to make it perform its best. As far as box calculators go, they are generic tools, so they'll tend to calculate port size and box size a little differently. Hopefully, the dimensions they're calculating are all correct, but the specifics can certainly vary from one calculator to the next.

  • Roger from Fort worth TX

    Posted on 5/3/2016

    Why is it that my sub manufacturer calls for a ported box be a certain cubic volume and the port to be a certain diameter and length and tune but every box calculator says something completely different not only different than the manufacturer but than every other box calculator, I also used all the subs t/s parameters why is it none of the means to which I can ascertain what size box and ports I need are so different , how do I figure out which is best to properly fabricate my subwoofer enclosure please help

  • Commenter image

    Alexander Hrabe from Crutchfield

    Posted on 1/12/2016

    Vikas, check the manual for the ideal dimensions for your subwoofer or you may even want to consult the manufacturer's tech support before beginning. Be sure to take accurate measurements of the space you'd like to use, then follow the steps outlined in this article.

  • Vikas from Jind

    Posted on 1/12/2016

    Sir, i wanted to know the dimension of box for a 8" driver as i wanted to use it at home..... And will it work??

  • Commenter image

    Alexander Hrabe from Crutchfield

    Posted on 1/6/2016

    Richard, it would be worth contacting tech support for your sub manufacturer for recommendations, but searching the internet for "sub box volume calculator" or something similar should point you to a couple of places that'll help you calculate the number you need.

  • Richard Swartz from Rose City

    Posted on 1/4/2016

    My box design to fit in my truck, it will be half round and half square. It's for looks and I've seen one done, it will look well. How do I calculate the volume then?

  • Commenter image

    Alexander Hrabe from Crutchfield

    Posted on 12/23/2015

    Erick, check the manual for the ideal dimensions for your subwoofer or you may even want to consult the JL Audio's tech support before beginning. Be sure to take accurate measurements of the space you'd like to use in your vehicle, then follow the steps outlined in this article.

  • Erick from Oakland

    Posted on 12/22/2015

    Hey I'm a beginner and I have never design or made a sub box. I have a 12 inch Jl audio w7 and I want to how I should build the box. Like mainly the ported design inside the box. Like how long I should make the enclosure or whatever it's called.? Plz help

  • Commenter image

    Alexander Hrabe from Crutchfield

    Posted on 12/14/2015

    Oscar, you're thinking of a ported enclosure, which will give your bass a different sound than a sealed enclosure. Check out this article on the different kinds of sub enclosures for more information.

  • Oscar from Mexico

    Posted on 12/11/2015

    Is not supposed to have an opening for the air be able to move in and out the box?

  • Commenter image

    Alexander Hrabe from Crutchfield

    Posted on 11/27/2015

    Maxx, check the manual for the ideal dimensions for your subwoofers or you may even want to consult the manufacturer's tech support before beginning. Be sure to take accurate measurements of the space you'd like to use in your vehicle, then follow the steps outlined in this article. Good luck!

  • Maxx from Virginia beach

    Posted on 11/25/2015

    Trying make a box design for 4 massive summos 8in subs with port trying to come up with best idea

  • Commenter image

    Alexander Hrabe from Crutchfield

    Posted on 10/25/2015

    Shiyam, for more information about how to install an amplifier, check out this article.

  • Shiyam from India

    Posted on 10/22/2015

    What about the power supply?? And how to connect with batteries

  • Commenter image

    Alexander Hrabe from Crutchfield

    Posted on 10/12/2015

    Chris, it's ideal. An internal wall ensures that each sub gets the right amount of unshared air space for optimum performance, and that structure also makes for a stronger, sturdier box.

  • Chris

    Posted on 10/10/2015

    For dual or triple sub enclosures are they supposed to be completely sealed between the subs? Meaning if I push in on one should the other come out? Several boxes I have purchased do this. The one I built did not. And the sound was lacking.

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    Alexander Hrabe from Crutchfield

    Posted on 10/7/2015

    Kenneth, check your subwoofer manual for the ideal dimensions for an enclosure or you may even want to consult the manufacturer's tech support. Once you know those dimensions, give us a call at the number above, and an advisor will help you find the box that's right for you.

  • Kenneth Starling from Franklinton

    Posted on 10/5/2015

    I need a 4 ft box tuned at 32 for 2 12s... How do I know where my box is tuned at?

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    Alexander Hrabe from Crutchfield

    Posted on 9/29/2015

    Brad, if you're referring to a port size, that will depend on the cubic volume of your box and what frequency you're trying to tune for. You can check the subwoofer owner's manual for suggestions, but searching the internet for "tuning port calculator" should point you to a couple of places that'll help you figure it out.

  • Brad from Aylmer

    Posted on 9/28/2015

    My brother had a sub box made for 2 boxes, I decided to make 2 single boxes for the each of them for him and I. There is a 4 inch hole for the sound in the double box, so do you think a 2 inch hole in the single sub box would be benifitial? To execute the sound better?

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    Alexander Hrabe from Crutchfield

    Posted on 7/31/2015

    Alex, any wood glue should do the trick. You could also use carpet adhesive. The key is to make sure your application is even. You'll get the best results if you apply the carpet in stages, allowing ample time for one side to dry before applying it to the next.

  • Alex from san angelo

    Posted on 7/31/2015

    What's the best glue for when it comes to wrap up box w carpet, thanks.

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    Alexander Hrabe from Crutchfield

    Posted on 7/23/2015

    Ted, contact Audison tech support with the model number. They may be able to help.

  • Ted from San Francisco

    Posted on 7/23/2015

    What is the Vcc measurement ? I have an Audison 12 inch sub. thanks .

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    Alexander Hrabe from Crutchfield

    Posted on 7/22/2015

    Baily, check the manual for the ideal dimensions for your subwoofer or you may even want to consult the manufacturer's tech support before beginning. Be sure to take accurate measurements of the space you'd like to use in your pick-up, then follow the steps outlined in this article. Good luck!

  • baily clifton

    Posted on 7/21/2015

    I wad was wondering on how to make a box for my truck. I have recently bought 4 61/2 inch speakers and a 12 inch sub. I have a 99 f250 pick up

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    Alexander Hrabe from Crutchfield

    Posted on 7/7/2015

    Brad, you're thinking in the right direction by separating the subs and keeping things simple. Follow the steps laid out in this article in accordance with the ideal box dimensions for each sub. If you're unsure about the recommended box dimensions, give Pioneer or Alpine tech support (depending on the sub) for advice.

  • Brad Counard from Manitowoc,WI.

    Posted on 7/6/2015

    Question, I want to design a ported box for (4) 12" subwoofers. I have to separate the (2) subs from the other (2) subs being that they are different brands and different dimensions (2) Alpine type R,and (2) Pioneer comp. D.V.C subs is there any advice you could give me on constructing this project? Thanks,Brad

  • jott sajot from philippines

    Posted on 6/8/2015

    nice box for your sub-woofer